A winter week in Lofoten
Short days, long blue hours and roads that disappear under fresh snow. A practical guide to photographing the Lofoten islands in deep winter.
In January the sun barely clears the mountains in Lofoten. Some days it never quite rises at all, and instead the islands sit for hours in a long blue twilight that photographers dream about. It is cold, the weather is wild, and it is my favourite place in the world to make pictures.
When to go
The polar night ends in early January. From then until late February you get a few hours of low, golden light around midday, framed by long stretches of blue hour on either side. By March the days lengthen quickly and the light grows harsher, though the snow usually lingers into April.
Getting around
A rental car is essential, ideally with studded tyres, which are standard on winter hire cars in northern Norway. The E10 links almost every island, but conditions change by the hour. Check the road reports every morning and never assume a mountain road will still be open on the way back.
I stay in a traditional rorbu, a fisherman's cabin on stilts above the water. Waking up to snow on the peaks and the harbour glowing below the window is reason enough to make the trip.
Where the cabins photograph best
The image at the top of this story was made inland on a clear, windless morning, after a night of fresh snow had smoothed every track. I kept the cabins small and low in the frame and let the emptiness do the work. In winter, simplicity is everything: one strong subject, plenty of white space and a sky that changes colour every few minutes.
In Lofoten the light is brief, so you learn to be ready long before it arrives.
Staying warm and keeping batteries alive
- Dress in layers of wool, with a windproof shell and insulated boots.
- Carry spare batteries in an inside pocket, close to your body.
- Let your camera warm up slowly in a sealed bag when you come indoors, to avoid condensation.
- Bring microspikes for icy trails and harbour walkways.
If you would rather not plan it alone, I lead a small-group winter journey to Lofoten each February, built around the best light of each day. You will find the details on the home page, and I am always happy to answer questions.
